Artisan Taste

Quinoa a great food, only grows in Bolivia

2011-03-28T22:47:00.000-07:00

Interesting article from the NY Times about quinoa:

Now demand for quinoa (pronounced KEE-no-ah) is soaring in rich countries, as American and European consumers discover the “lost crop” of the Incas. The surge has helped raise farmers’ incomes here in one of the hemisphere’s poorest countries. But there has been a notable trade-off: Fewer Bolivians can now afford it, hastening their embrace of cheaper, processed foods and raising fears of malnutrition in a country that has long struggled with it.

Full article: Quinoa's Success

Italian San Marzano Tomato Taste Off

2009-06-27T21:04:00.000-07:00

San Marzano tomatoes are the famous plum tomatoes from the Campania region of Italy. They are known for being the best sauce tomatoes in the world. At our 43eleven Italian store, we used to sell (a lot) of the La Valle brand. But when I was in Bay Cities Deli in Santa Monica I noticed a few brands I have not tried. So I decided to test out three different kinds.

Courtney and I made three different batches of basic tomato sauce with each brand and tried them side-by-side. We stuck with the Mario Batali recipe for basic tomato sauce which is a great all-purpose recipe. We always buy whole tomatoes (all of these come in tomato puree with a little basil in them) and then use a potato masher to make a chunky sauce.

Here are our notes:

1. All three of these brands were Italian tomatoes - there is a very popular brand in the supermarkets with Italian writing and look but are of domestic origin. Not that that makes them unacceptable - I didn't try them - but it is somewhat decieving, so read the label to make sure they are from Italy.

2. Most Italian San Marzano labled tomatoes are not neccisarily from the San Marzano area. Only the ones with DOP certification are the original, authentic San Marzanos grown in the shadow of Mt. Vesuvius in volcanic soils. That also doesn't mean the others are not good, usualy it means they use the same type of plum tomato that is known as San Marzano, but the DOP lets you know the origin and quality control. Only one of the brands we tried was DOP.

3. We tried them first right out of the can and then in the sauce. All of the ones we tried were very good. The differences were noticeable but relatively minor.

La Bella San Marzano -- $3.98

Very nice, lighter in overall flavor, more natural acidity.

Coluccio San Marzano D.O.P. -- $6.49

Very rich, the most balance between sweet and acidic, the sauce had a more lasting flavor.

La Valle San Marzano -- $2.98

The sweetest of the three, nice, rich.

The overall winner of the bunch was the DOP. But both others were very good, and at the price, I probably would use the DOP only when the sauce is kept simple and served with nice pasta or with vegetables.

We have a lot of sauce left over, we used a blender for part of the leftovers and added a touch of milk to make a smoother, creamier version. And you can always use the basic sauce and turn it into a meat sauce, or a Puttenesca sauce (add black olives, anchovies, capers, and red chilis).

Bon Appetito!

Two Cheese Articles

2009-06-26T21:02:00.000-07:00

Sheep vs. Sheep in Basque Country - Atlantic Magazine

Explores the issue in the Basque region between the ancient indigineous Iatxa

breed of sheep and the hybrid Assaf sheep. Basque cheese are some of my favortie - the two examples given are Roncal and Idiazabal (from the Spanish Basque area). Other favorites are Ossau-Iraty, Abbae del Belloc, and Blue de Basuqe (from the French Pryenees/Basque area). The article just scratches the surface of the underlying issue of tradition vs. growth, but it is worth a read. Then go buy some cheese!

Where the Mozzarella Roams - LA Times

From the travel section in the LA Times, an article about Campania and the fresh Buffalo-milk Mozzarella so famous from that region. Some good info and anecdotal stories about the cheese and the region that produces it. Go get some fresh Mozzarella di Bufala to go with those farmers market fresh tomatoes.

FOOD, INC. - THE MOVIE

2009-06-23T23:41:00.000-07:00

Very well done documentary about the food we buy in a typical supermarket and how/why it got there. Covering the industrial food operation, nutrition, food safety, and more.

Some of the story is sad and some is disgusting, but there are some great characters like farmer Joel Salatin who inspire and educate at the same time.

FOOD, Inc. - The Movie

Soupe au Pistou

2009-06-20T14:07:00.000-07:00

Pretty simple french vegetable soup, made special with a "Pistou" - the french version of Italian pesto added to the soup at the table. We tried this and loved it. We used 1/2 stock and 1/2 water for a slightly added richness. Go to your Farmers Market and get some basil and try this.

Go here for Mark Bittman's recipe:

Soupe au Pistou

Kentucky "Grilled Chicken" (with Beef)

2009-06-12T17:05:00.000-07:00

Wow! Here is the list of ingredients in the Kentucky "Grilled Chicken" --

“KFC® Grilled Chicken Fresh Chicken Marinated with: Salt, Sodium Phosphate, and Monosodium Glutamate Seasoned with: Maltodextrin, Salt, Bleached Wheat Flour, Partially Hydrogenated Soybean and Cottonseed Oil, Monosodium Glutamate, Spices, Palm Oil, Natural Flavor, Garlic Powder, Soy Sauce (Soybean, Wheat, Salt), Chicken Fat, Chicken Broth, Autolyzed Yeast, Beef Powder, Rendered Beef Fat, Extractives of Turmeric, Dehydrated Carrot, Onion Powder, and Not More Than 2% Each of Calcium Silicate and Silicon Dioxide Added as Anticaking Agents. Contains Wheat and Soy.”

Plus it's "grilled in an oven". How do they get those grill marks? How exactly do you get Beef Powder? Never mind, please don't tell me.

This stuff does not even resemble real food. Run, don't walk away from this stuff!

Cheese

2009-06-12T16:15:00.000-07:00

A fine bloomy rind, triple creme. Just testing the mobile posting.

I've Been Busy...

2009-06-12T16:00:00.000-07:00

So, when I started this blog, I had intentions of updating more frequently. After we closed 43eleven, I did have more time on my hands and lots of information to share.

But then I found a company, who carries wonderful food products, to work for and this blog got pushed to the back burner - the back right burner specifically, that is my least favorite burner, the flame is inconsistent and I have to reach to far to stir things, you get the idea.

From 43eleven to CheeseWorks:

I first heard about CheeseWorks in Italy from their buyer, so in September of 2007 they hired me to be the one and only sales rep for the L.A. area. They are based in the San Francisco Bay area, but service the L.A. area too.

The best thing about it is that we carry so many great products.

Cheeses (of course) - the best imported from France, Spain, Italy, and a good amount of artisan cheeses from the US. And I get to work with the best independent stores and restaurants in L.A. And my refrigerator always has samples in it which keeps me and my wife happy!

CheeseWorks is a distributor, so we only sell to retail and restaurants, so I am not selling you anything here.

Anyway, I won't be using this blog to promote my employer, but will try and post more frequently for the few of you show still might care ;) One thing though , is in the past few years there has been an explosion of foodie web sites and blogs, so many of my posts will simply refer to the great writing that is out there.

Artisanal Premium Cheese

2007-09-08T22:07:00.000-07:00

Imagine sitting around for three days discussing all the milky details about the worlds best cheeses all the while methodically tasting over 100 different cheeses! That was my experience back in July as I took the Master Class for Professionals at the Artisanal Cheese Center in New York. While I have a good working knowledge about Italian cheeses, this experience certainly gave me a more global appreciation for that wonderful product of controlled spoilage that is cheese!

Our instructors for the class were Daphne Zepos and Max McCalman, two experts in the cheese world. Daphne is an experienced cheese affineur (an expert at maturing cheeses), a teacher, an accredited taster, and much more. Her passion and knowledge of cheese is contagious. Max McCalman is a passionate advocate for great authentic cheese and the author of two must-have cheese books, "The Cheese Plate" and "Cheese: A Connoisseur's Guide to the World's Best". One of Max's specialties, and I think favorite hobbies, is wine and cheese pairing. He led us through a couple grueling sessions of tasting 36 different combinations of cheese and wine. It was grueling, I tell you...no really...ok, maybe not.

The class was wonderful and I am hoping to get Max to do an event next time he is in Los Angeles and will certainly tell you all about it when that happens.

What is so special about Artisanal Premium Cheese?
Artisanal is one of a few affineur's in the U.S. They buy cheeses and then expertly ripen or age them to perfection. They age the cheeses in five different cheese "caves" (fancy walk-in refrigerators) kept at different temperature and humidity settings to optimally ripen the cheese. This is a hands-on operation, some cheeses get washed daily (with brine or other liquids to add flavor), turned, tasted, and moved to different caves as needed.

Cheese Tasting and Review
So, after I got back from my class, I thought I would test out their mail-order and get a selection of cheese for a tasting. I ordered seven different cheeses online and they showed up in great shape. Then invited some lucky friends over to evaluate and enjoy!

Here was the line-up for our tasting:

Thym Tamarre, France - an fantastic goat cheese identifiable by its shape and the elegant touch of thyme and lavender folded within. Creamy with hint of herbs.
Queso de Aracena, Spain - a washed-rind goat cheese with firm, moist texture and an earthy, slightly tangy flavor.
Roncal, Spain - a sheep's milk cheese, somewhat similar to Pecorino Toscano, but with a bit more nutty flavor, fantastic with Rioja wines.
Munster, France - authentic Munster is a washed-rind cow's milk cheese from Alsace, France. Ours arrived perfectly ripe, strong barnyard aromas, flavors of earth, a rich tanginess.
Cheddar Fiscalini, American - Fiscalini Bandaged Cheddar is a raw cow's milk artisanal cheddar from California. Sharp flavors, grassy, fruity.
Roquefort, France - Carles Roquefort is a classic sheep's milk blue cheese that was simply amazing. Velvety creamy, sweet with a consistent and long-lasting piquant flavor.
La Tur, Italy - a three-milk cheese from the Piemonte region of Italy. Silky smooth, tangy, creamy and rich. (not from Artisanal Cheese, but I needed something Italian!)
Fondue - Artisanal's own fondue is a mix of Emmentaler and other mountain cheeses, melted nicely and has great flavor.

Our tasters all left with big smiles on their faces - and some of them weren't even drinking. So, look for or request these cheese in your local cheese shop or order online at Artisanal Premium Cheese. [This blog, ArtisanTaste is not affiliated in any way with Artisanal Premium Cheese, just similar names.]

Cheese Class at Market Gourmet

2007-09-06T21:29:00.001-07:00

I'll be facilitating a cheese tasting at Market Gourmet on Thursday, September 13th. At this tasting, we will feature farmsted and artisanal American Cheeses. If you think American cheeses can not compare to the great cheese making traditions in Europe, you are in for a surprise. The tasting will include a handful of cheeses ranging in style from light and expressive goat cheeses to rich and creamy blues. Market Gourmet will pour a few complementary wines to go with these amazing cheeses, all for just $40 if you sign up in advance.

This class will be held on Thursday, September 13th at 7:30 p.m.
Please call Market Gourmet at 310-305-9800 to make your reservation.
Class size is limited.
Advanced Purchase Fee: $40.00

Hope to see you there!

Pasta Rummo and Recipe

2007-08-21T20:48:00.000-07:00

At our 43eleven Italian Foods store, Rummo Lenta Lavoazione was a huge hit with our customers. And we were the only outlet for this pasta in the Los Angeles area. Now what? Well, recently Gelson's has started carrying this pasta and at a great price ($2.59).

By the way, watch for some price increases in fine pastas - the cost of durum wheat is way up, and the good pasta makers must pass this increase along if they continue to use the best durum wheat. There is a short audio report on this news here at American Public Media: Wheat Cost Turns Up Heat on Italian Pasta

Rummo is a very good pasta, not an artisanal or rustic pasta, but an authentic well made one and will match-up with just about any sauce. Because of the slow process (lenta lavorazione) they use to make Rummo, it retains all the natural protein and gluten that make pasta great.

Now here is a recipe using Rummo's Caserecce cut of pasta. If you can't find Rummo or caserecce, you can certainly substitute your favorite brand of farfalle (bowtie) shaped pasta.

Caserecce with Walnut and Pine Nut Sauce

Ingredients:

1 package Caserecce Rummo Lenta Lavorazione Pasta
3 oz. Walnuts
2 oz. Pine Nuts
1.5 oz. Bread Crumbs
3 oz. Milk
2 oz. Butter

Remove the skin from walnuts if desired. Place walnuts, pine nuts, breadcrumbs, and milk in a blender. Blend for a few seconds until the mixture is creamy. Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium heat and add the sauce, warming thoroughly. Add salt and pepper to taste. Cook Pasta in boiling salted water, according to instructions on package. Drain when al dente and combine with sauce. Drizzle with Extra Virgin Olive Oil and serve immediately. Serves 4-6.
Buon Apetito!

Vincenzo Spinosi Live in Venice!

2007-07-10T20:58:00.000-07:00

If you missed the Spinosi demo a few weeks ago at Market Gourmet, this is what you missed! Here is Vincenzo Spinosi showing us how to make his signature recipe using Spinosi pasta. Watch this one minute video and then follow the recipe below.

(Thanks to Will Kenworthy for the video.)

Spinosini con prosciutto e limone
(Spinosini with prosciutto and lemon)

250gr (1/2 pound) Spinosini* Pasta
3 oz (3 thin slices) of Prosciutto di Parma
2 Tbsp Extra Virgin Olive Oil
¼ cup Parmigiano-Reggiano
1 Tbsp Italian Parsley, finely-chopped
1 tsp Lemon Zest
2 ladles (1 1/3 cup) water from cooking pasta

Cut the prosciutto into small strips and heat over medium-low heat in the extra virgin olive oil without browning. Cook the Spinosini in plenty of boiling salted water for 2 minutes (half the cooking time). Drain the pasta (retain 2 ladles of pasta water) and add to the skillet with 2 ladles of the pasta water. Cook for about 1 minute, then add the lemon zest, half of the cheese and half of the parsley, stir. Remove from the heat and add the remaining cheese and parsley. Mix gently and serve. Serves 3-4, pairs well with Verdicchio or Gavi wines.

*Spinosini is a special cut of the Spinosi pasta line, a very small square-cut noodle. Although Vincenzo would say that you must use the Spinosini cut, we love this recipe with any of the Spinosi pastas!

Buon Appetito

Fioretto Trattoria

2007-07-09T19:48:00.000-07:00

Chef and Owner David Giani at Fioretto Trattoria has been a friend since we opened 43eleven. His restaurant on Culver Blvd and McConnell was frequent lunch stop for us while we worked down the street and he used our Extra Virgin Olive Oil from Chianti.

Fioretto's is a small, family-run restaurant that serves traditional Italian food, with an emphasis on the cuisine of Tuscany. Many of the menu items are handmade by Chef Giani - Focaccia bread, fresh mozzarella, gnocchi, Pici Pasta, and more. Most recently, we had dinner there and it very much reminded us of the rustic food we had in Tuscany. Highlights of our most recent visit included the Zuppa di Lenticchie (Lentil Soup), Whole-wheat Gnocchetti with garlic rapini, and the Tagliata (sliced beef tenderloin) with a balsamic glaze.

Firoetto's has great quality lunch specials if you are in the area, but a nice relaxing dinner is the best way to enjoy the food. Tell Chef Giani I sent you.

Fioretto Trattoria
12740 Culver Blvd. (Marina del Rey/Mar Vista)
Los Angeles, CA 90066
310-448-8000

Ratatouille

2007-07-08T14:56:00.000-07:00

A animated movie about a rat who aspires to be a great chef? This movie is great fun! It combines an captivating storyline with interesting characters (and no annoying sidekicks!) and plenty of animated antics - all the while exploring authentic and passionate cooking.

Here is an excerpt from the New York Times review:

The hero (and perhaps Mr. Bird's alter ego) is Remy (Patton Oswalt), a young rat who lives somewhere in the French countryside and conceives a passion for fine cooking. Raised by garbage-eaters, he is drawn toward a more exalted notion of food by the sensitivity of his own palate and by the example of Auguste Gusteau (Brad Garrett), a famous chef who insists -- more in the manner of Julia Child than of his real-life haute cuisine counterparts -- that ''anyone can cook.''

A.O. Scott's full review at the New York Times (registration required)

2006 Olive Oils - Toscana vs. Sicilia

2007-06-20T13:20:00.000-07:00

Olio Extra Vergine di Oliva - Extra Virgin Olive Oil
When 43eleven Italian Foods was in business, we sold more olive oil than any single other product (yes, including Pecorino Toscano). There was a reason, of course, we had many customers who were foodies and could tell a good olive oil when they tasted it. And because we took the time to tell our customers about our olive oils and why we selected them. And because they were just damn good!

But where to go now? The olive oils we sold are not currently available in the U.S., but there are some excellent alternatives out there. With that in mind, I did some research and ordered these four below - all via mail/web. There are some great olive oils in Los Angeles specialty stores, but I have not yet tried many of them. I'll keep you posted on that.

If you love fresh olive oil, you should now be buying only the 2006 harvest (olives are picked and crushed in late fall/early winter and the oils are at their peak for about one year after that).
Theses oils were tasted by Courtney and me with 3 other olive oils for control purposes. All were tasted alone and then with some warm cannellini beans. The first two are from Tuscany and the second two are from Sicily - different styles for different tastes.

Selvapiana, Podre San Giuseppe, Rufina, Toscano
This estate labels the exact date of harvest - talk about obsessive ;) This one was harvested on 10-25-06, bottled unfiltered, and is the boldest of the bunch. Deep green color, wild aroma of cut grass and artichoke, and big complex flavors of fresh green olives which leads to a long, long finish with a generous amount of pepper at the end. Wow! Not for the faint at heart, but excellent if you like classic Tuscan olive oil. $22.95/500ml at Rare Wine Company. A bit expensive, but this is one that will be noticed and can stand up in hearty Tuscan soups or finish off a Bistecca alla Fiorentino!

Vetrice, Rufina, Toscano
Vetrice is a single-site olive oil from a specified site on the Grati estate in the hills east of Firenze. This one is also unfiltered and has a dark green color, a leafy green/cut grass aroma, and flavors of green olive with a moderately peppery finish. Similar characteristics of the Podre San Giuseppe, but a bit more balanced. Will turn an ordinary Caprese salad into a mouthwatering delight. $19.95/500ml at Rare Wine Company.

(A note about Rare Wine Company - importers and retailers of hard-to-find fine wine, they started importing small-estate Tuscan olive oil a while ago and now have a cult following every April waiting for the new harvest olive oils. They sell out quick, so you have to be flexible, but most of their stuff is very high quality. Ask for Barry Herbst.)

Fontanasalsa 'Falconero', Valli Trapensesi DOP, Sicilia
Falconero is a Sicilian extra virgin olive oil from Trapani, on the western coast of Sicily. It has more of a golden/avocado-green color, a soft citrusy aroma, milder and rounder than the Tuscan oils, and finishes with a subtle pepperyness. Falconero is a mellow but complex oil that will work with seafood dishes, salads, and delicate meats. $23.00-$27.00/750ml makes this good quality/price buy at either: 1-800Gourmet or CapriFlavors online.

Fontanasalsa, Trapani, Cultivar Cerasuola, Sicilia
From the same producer of the Falconero, this oil is produced from a single kind of olive - Cerasuola. It has a golden-light green color, a mild aroma of citrus/asparagus, and a mild soft flavor of dark green/black olives with an herbal and slightly peppery finish. Ideal for tuna and salmon, or salads. $39.85 at CapriFlavors online.

Others tasted for fun and control:
43eleven Toscano IGP (2004 harvest) - Still a vibrant oil for 2004 , but has lost some of its fruit. (not available)
43eleven Il Palagio Chianti Classico Moraiole DOP (2005 harvest) - still shines as a leafy-green single estate olive oil. (not available)
Kirkland Toscano IGP (2006 harvest) - a bargain and it is pretty good, but somewhat one-dimensional flavor profile, good for frying and sautéing. (available at Costco - but frequently out of stock)

Update July 10, 2007:
Just a note about the harvest dates on Olive Oils. Most olives are picked and crushed in October or November of each year depending on ripeness and style, thus the latest harvest is now 2006. I noticed that some producers or bottlers (like O&Co.) are advertising their olive oils as "2007 Harvest". Well they are released in 2007, but clearly labled on the back of the bottle as harvested and grown in 2006, so we think that is a bit misleading. I favor the traditional labeling as it is most accurate and similar to "vintage" dates on wines, but the important thing is to look for the latest harvest when buying premium extra virgin olive oils.

Spinosi Demo SATURDAY JUNE 23rd!!

2007-06-19T22:14:00.000-07:00

MEET VINCENZO SPINOSI THIS SATURDAY
Demo and Tasting at Market Gourmet
Saturday June 23
11:00AM - 2:00PM at Market Gourmet
1800 Abbot Kinney, Venice, CA

Why is this guy ALWAYS smiling? Come find out this Saturday at Market Gourmet in Venice - on Abbot Kinney between Washington and Venice Blvd. Vincenzo will be preparing his special family recipe for you to taste.

Vincenzo Spinosi is better known as the "Prince of Pasta", or the "Maccheroncino King", depending on one's tastes and latitude. He as acquired these titles in his field, with his charm and charismatic manner, and by his excellence in doing what he loves - which explains all the smiling!
Spinosi Pasta was a 43eleven favorite and big seller - it is wonderful with the simplest sauces, pestos, or just some Tuscan Olive Oil and Parmigiano Reggiano.

Spinosi uses only the best ingredients, including 33% fresh whole eggs in each pasta, care is taken in "drawing" it during production, and it dries in a slow and natural drying process - all these combine to create a pasta that is both delicate and flavorful. Theses cook very quickly, so don't forget the Italian rule here - the pasta goes in the water when you are at the table, so you are ready to enjoy immediately when it is perfectly cooked and dressed. Certo!

Campofilone is a small medieval town catching the breeze of the nearby sea. The ancient city walls, crenellated gateways, the panorama, the red bricks - all witnesses of traditions which have never been forgotten. But Campofilone also has an extraordinary history, making it famous far over its walls and borders, thanks to the Spinosi family. For generations, Campofilone has been a synonym of maccheroncini as fine as the golden cherub's hair, produced according to an art originating in the clean and simple houses and workshops where men and women are working with the rolling-pin to transform the egg and flour kneading into a thin golden veil to be skillfully cut. Today, Vincenzo keeps the Spinosi tradition alive.

Available at:
Market Gourmet, Venice, CA
Wally's Wine, Westwood, CA (at store and online)
A.G. Ferrari Foods (online)

Unti Vineyards 2005 Barbera

2007-06-18T19:26:00.000-07:00

Barbera is a wonderful grape - with it's characteristic red-cherry sweetness, soft tannins and mouthwatering acidity. At least those are the characteristics of Barbera from the Piemonte region of Italy where it thrives along side the more heralded Nebbiolo ( the grape of Barolo and Barbaresco). But in California (and sometimes even in Italy) it can be an overdone, over-oaked mess. Here is an wonderful exception to that rule from a small family winery in Sonoma:

Unti Vineyards 2005 Dry Creek Valley Barbera

Unti is located in Dry Creek Valley. This 100% Barbera comes from their 2-acre vineyard located on their winery ranch. This is "modern-style" Barbera, meaning it is more fruit forward and does spend some time in oak, but it is well-balanced and still retains the characteristic Barbera flavor. This Barbera possesses deep color, rich fruit aromas, a juicy mouthfeel and adequate acidity and is versatile with food. More traditional Barbera is the perfect match for cream sauces or tomato sauces, but this one probably is a bit rich for that, but it will pair with anything barbecued, grilled or roasted.

Call or e-mail Unti Vineyards to order. Tell Katie or Mick I sent you. Salute

Piemontese cheeses that I am loving right now!

2007-05-25T00:17:00.000-07:00

These two cheeses are made by Caseificio dell' Alta Langa in the Piemonte region of

Italy

. This company makes a very good line of authentic regional cheeses and these two, though similar, are quite unique - they both use a mixture of cow, sheep, and goat’s milk.

Rocchetta
Rocchetta is a little village not far from Caseificio dell' Alta Langa. This is a creamy and smooth cheese with some earthiness to it. Straw-colored with a soft surface. The three milks are well balanced and the flavors mix well. Rocchetta has more surface area than the La Tur, so tends to ripen faster, giving it a little stronger flavor.

La Tur
La Tur in Piedmontese dialect means “The Tower”, referring to the hundreds of medieval towers scattered throughout the region. This cheese has slightly more goat’s milk and a bit more crumbly texture, but becomes creamier with time.

Allow theses cheese to come to room temperature and then serve with some nice crusty bread – perfect with some Prosecco or Champagne. After dinner, serve these cheeses with some artisan honey or fig jam – the creaminess of the cheese is a perfect match!

I first tried the Rocchetta from a great cheese shop in Philadelphia's Italian Market, but have since found this line of cheeses at select cheese shops here in Los Angeles and on the web.

Available at these Los Angeles stores:
Wally’s Wine, Westwood
Cheese Store of Beverly Hills
Whole Foods Markets (depending on each store’s buyer)

Available online here:
iGourmet

Buon Appetito!

Pa Pa Pa, Pa Parmigiano

2007-05-07T18:28:00.000-07:00

Do you like dancing vegetables singing about the greatness of cheese? Who doesn’t? Stay tuned...

Parmigiano Reggiano is the undisputed king of cheeses – crumbly but creamy, salty but sweet, sharp but nutty. It is made today the way it has been made for centuries and takes around 2 years to develop properly. A far cry from any American “Parmesan”, this cheese is amazing whether grated over pasta or eating chunks with some artisan honey or just with a big bold red wine. I could go on about this cheese and if you want more information, there is a great web site by the Parmigiano Reggiano consortium showing all the steps for making this wonderful cheese. I recommend it if you want more information.

And now a word from our sponsors. (This is an actual commercial in Italy for Parmigiano Reggiano!!)

Ha Ha – catchy tune huh? Maybe that will stop you from buying that “parmesan” in that green can. If you would like to see all 4 of those silly commercials including a Christmas themed one, go here to YouTube. But I am warning you that repeated viewing will make you start humming “Pa Pa Pa…”

Things to remember about this great cheese:

It is widely available. But be careful about prices that are too good to be true (in Italy this cheese is more expensive than Costco sells it!). Buy from a cheese shop where you know it was cut on site, not one where it has been in plastic wrap since it left Italy. Also look for 22-24 months of aging. Twelve months is the minimum for the consortium, but the very good cheeses are aged at least 18-24 months, often more.

Market Gourmet, Venice, California

2007-05-07T18:13:00.000-07:00

If you live on the West Side of Los Angeles, you need to know about this great little gourmet shop on Abbot Kinney between Washington and Venice. Market Gourmet has a wide variety of products from all over the world. And if you are looking for Italian products (like the ones we carried at 43eleven), Farro, the Vincotto line of vinegars, Speck Alto Adige, Mulino Bianco cookies and more, check out this store. The frozen pasta is very good too as is the wild boar bacon! The web site is not very helpful, but it does have contact information and their staff is very helpful. They also have a small but well selected cheese selection – not too much on the Italian side, but here is an interesting one I had last week:

Ubriaco alla Birra Rossa
Ubriaco Veneto (a cheese soaked in red wine must) was a very big hit at our store. This version is also from the Veneto but is made with red/amber beer. It is very nice, unpasteurized milk, aged for minimum of 100 days and soaked in local birra (beer), giving it a slight flavor of fruity beer. And yes, it pairs nicely with beer! I'm thinking a Fat Tire.

Ciro Rosso Classico Superiore Riserva, Calabria 2003

2007-05-07T17:42:00.000-07:00

Calabria is not well known for quality wine, but some very good stuff is made in that region of

Italy

. One I found recently is Ciro (pronounced Chee ROH). Several different Ciro wines made by Ippolito are available at Wine Expo in Santa Monica (2933 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica, 1-800-WINE-EXPO, no web site but will ship). The Rosato and the Ciro Rosso Liber Pater are very nice, but the Riserva is a step up and paired very nicely with grilled lamb.

Ippolito Ciro Rosso Classico Superiore Riserva Colli del Mancuso 2003, Calabria
Made from the Gaglioppo grape growing on steep hillsides and left hanging until late October producing a very rich wine with big spicy aromatics and dried cherries and plum on the palate. Rich in flavor but lively, not jammy, making it a great food wine.

Monty Python Cheese Shop

2007-04-29T23:03:00.000-07:00

I have been doing some Internet surfing about cheese lately...and I came across this video. Classic Monty Python humor...very funny!

Caltech branches into … olive oil

2007-04-28T14:06:00.000-07:00

An amusing article from the Los Angeles Times:

The institution better known for rocket science is launching its own brand of the golden kitchen condiment, produced from the trees on its Pasadena campus. A minor flood — upward of 300 gallons — is expected this fall.

Students make the first batch in their dorm rooms by some pretty interesting methods including stewing the olives. Hmmm...I think they better stick to their rocket science!

Speaking of olive oil, I will soon be ordering and reviewing some of the 2006 harvest olive oils from Italy - the real stuff. I'll write about is here soon.

The Emperor of Wine - Book Review

2007-04-26T15:37:00.000-07:00

Being the wine geek that I am, I have always been interested in Robert Parker. He is an immensely influential and polarizing figure in the wine world. By just about any measure he has more influence than any other single critic in any other field (food, art, movies, etc.). However, I am naturally suspicious of someone who is so powerful and judgmental in such a subjective field. Taste is very subjective - whether it is cheese, olive oil, or wine. And while analysis and criticism of all things subjective is a worthy pursuit, no one person's palate changes the way a product is made - except in the case of wine and Robert Parker.

I met author Elin McCoy in New York at Naturalamente Italiano, a food and wine event promoting authentic Italian products. She moderated an extensive panel of wine makers and a tasting of some wonderful wines. I spoke with her briefly and it really made me want to read this book. So I did. Parker is a delicate subject in the wine world, his supporters and the main stream wine press defend any criticism of him like they are family, and the traditionalists and the "alternative" wine press is very critical of everything he touches. I should disclose that I am closer to the latter camp and am someone who does not pay attention to wine scores at all! I do read reviews and descriptions which help me decide what to buy, but 100 point systems are just silly in my book.

McCoy does a very nice job of really explaining the rise of Robert Parker, putting it in context with the rise of wine consumption in the U.S. and giving a great background on some of wine's most colorful and interesting characters. She sets the stage and walks us through Parker's strong passion and work ethic and his desire to be a consumer advocate, like a Ralph Nader of the wine world. On his rise, he has built a dedicated following and his scores (even the difference in a few points) can mean the difference between a wines success or lack there of.

Most every major review of McCoy's book describe the book as "balanced" and "fair". I found that to be very true, as she presents Parker's views and his supporters views while pointing out critics and giving them weight. In the end, she questions what his legacy will be?

"So much of what Parker says he stands for caused the opposite to happen. He argued for the democratization of wine, and yet became the very symbol of the elite expert pronouncing on unobtainable wines...He argued for diversity in styles, yet in many regions what he wrote ended up promoting wines that begin to taste alike."

Whether your a wine geek or a Parker fan or not, this book is a great biographical read as he is such an fascinating American character.

FDA Proposes Changes in the Standards for Chocolate

2007-04-17T20:26:00.000-07:00

I saw this article in the Los Angeles Times "The Courage of their Confections" and wanted to pass it along.

Basically, the FDA is considering relaxing the standards for chocolate so that it may contain absolutely no chocolate products or by-products.

From the LA Times:

But the trade group, which has the support of the Chocolate Manufacturers of America, says it's just thinking outside the old chocolate box. The petition is part of a broad effort to give its members more flexibility in choosing the ingredients that go into many food products.

Why?

A pound of chocolate contains more than 4 ounces of cocoa butter, at a cost of about $2.30, said Guittard Chocolate, based in Burlingame, Calif. The same amount of vegetable oil was 70 cents.

It should be noted that a lot of chocolate on the market has little or no actual "cacao", but at least under current rules they have to contain cocoa butter which is a product from the cacao bean. You should look for smaller producers and those who usually label the amount of cacao. The specialty (read "real") chocolate market is a fast-growing segment and that is good for consumers. The last thing we need is a another level of bad chocolate. Click here and follow the directions to leave your comments with the FDA. Don't Mess with Our Chocolate.

(image borrowed from CandyBlog)

Piave, Veneto

2007-04-04T12:43:00.000-07:00

Named after the Piave river in the Veneto region, this cheese comes in a semi-hard version and a more aged version (Vecchio). I love hard cheeses, so lately I have been using a lot of Piave Vecchio.

Piave is a cow's milk cheese that has a nice richness and a a full-bodied flavor. Similar to a Montasio, but usually with a bit more stronger flavors - especially the Piave Vecchio. Try grating Piave over some creamy polenta.

We actually did not carry this cheese at 43eleven very often, but it can be found with some searching. If you are in the Los Angeles area, you can get this cheese at the Cheese Store of Beverly Hills. Online you can order from iGourmet - which is good online source for hard-to-find cheeses.

This cheese goes especially well with a nice Valpolicella wine also from the Veneto region. Remember the rule when you are cooking Italian - "what grows together, goes together" - meaning if you are eating foods from a particular area or region, then drink the wine of that same area. Certo!

Frasca Food and Wine

2007-04-04T11:48:00.000-07:00

Frasca Food and Wine is a restaurant in Boulder, Colorado. While in the area last week, I had a chance to dine here. I met the sous chef in Italy on a tour of a Speck plant, so I had to check it out.

Frasca serves very traditional Italian food, inspired by the foods and style of the Friuli region with a slight modern touch. They serve is small-plate fashion, so you can enjoy several courses. They can be a bit pricey considering the portion sizes, but the quality was consistently excellent! Highlights from the dinner included the salumi plate, the polenta, the lamb, and the artisan cheese plate.

Frasca's wine list is extensive and eclectic (especially for what I expected in Colorado), with most the the regions of Italy represented and as well as some other parts of the globe. We stuck to northern Italian and enjoyed a Muller-Thurgau from Trentino, a rustic-style Merlot from Veneto, and a Lagreign from Alto Adige which was big, rich, and perfect with the lamb.

Well, enough of my Italian food adventure in Colorado. Needless to say, if you are in the Denver/Boulder area, you should go there. But make a reservation. They book up 1-3 weeks in advance. And say hi to Yoann, my sous chef friend. Next time, I'll write about something a little closer to my home in LA.

A Sad Day in Olive Oil History

2007-02-13T09:51:00.000-08:00

43eleven Authentic Italian Foods is now closed. This business that I started with my partner Marco about 14 months ago just did not have the success we had hoped for. As you may know, we had 10-15 restaurant customers we sold olive oil to and then we had our retail store and an online store.

43eleven was a great experience. We started a business from scratch, imported exclusive Olive Oils from Chianti, Coffee from Rome, and snack products directly form Italy. We found great local vendors for cheeses, meats, pastas, sauces and over 200 other authentic Italian products. We got great feedback from our customers and over 1000 of you signed up for our monthly e-newsletter. I'll take everything I learned and use it in whatever the future brings.

So, what's next?
Well, I am not sure just yet, but what I am sure of is I want to remain in the specialty food business. It is such a passion to find and share great food (and wine) products! So, for the short-term, I will continue writing the e-newsletter monthly and post stories to this blog. If you are not on the 43eleven e-mail list or are not sure, and would like to receive updates, please e-mail me at brian@artisantaste.com

Brian Cohee

Farmhouse in Chianti

2006-07-30T20:49:00.000-07:00

The farmhouse where Courtney and I stayed in Mercatale in Val di Pesa (in the Chianti area of Tuscany). Also our Puegot car that we put 600 miles on in 10 days!